The Enduring Charm of Toile de Jouy!

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Toile de Jouy (cloth from Jouy) or simply toile consists of a traditionally white or off-white background with a single color print in a repeating and fairly complex pattern. Toile owes its origins in part to the importation of Indienne fabric from India to France during the late 15th century.  In the Middle Ages, fabric with decorative images was scarce and the block-printed, painted cotton Indienne fabric quickly gained popularity with wealthy Europeans. At the end of the 17th century, King Louis XIV became concerned at the dwindling French fabric industry of wool and silk and placed an unsuccessful embargo on the importation of Indian fabrics. Demand for the fabrics continued unabated and the failed prohibition was lifted in 1759. Ultimately the French monarchy decided to establish a factory to compete with foreign imports.

 

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Wood block printed Indienne fabric 

In 1760, after recruiting amongst Swiss and German fabric specialists and manufacturers, the Royale de Jouy was established by German-born Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf in the town of Jouy-en-Josas near Versailles. By 1774, over 900 workers were employed printing single color fabric in repetitive designs using the block printing method. Oberkampf eventually replaced block printing with copperplate sheets mounted on rollers that produced a continuous image. In 1783, the Oberkampf factory became "royal manufacturer" under King Louis XVI.  Aside from oriental subjects, images known as "cameos" were created based on fields, flowers and scenes from Provence and eventually came to be known as "Toile de Jouy". More than 30,000 designs would eventually be fabricated at the Jouy factory. Although the factory closed in 1843, many of the designs created by Jean-Baptiste Huet, Oberkampf's lead artist, are still in use today. 

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Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf

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18th century Oberkampf toile

Toile was very popular in Colonial America and is associated with preservationist towns such as Colonial Williamsburg. Toile has always remained in production and although at times it wanes in popularity, it continues to delight with its charming and historical images. Images as diverse as the Civil War, mythological figures, village life, the lives of the aristocracy, celebrations of events, literary and musical references, floral, exoticism including chinoiserie and the most enduring and popular French pastoral scenes. Similar fabrics with monochromatic designs printed in other factories are also by extension labeled toile.

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Originally known as the "Oberkampf Museum", the Museum of Toile de Jouy was established in 1977 in Montebello Castle at the initiative of the local mayor to revive the memory of the Jouy factory. In 1991, the museum was moved to the castle of the Eglantine. 

Musée de la Toile de Jouy

Castle Eglantine

54, rue Charles de Gaulle 78350 Jouy-en-Josas

Tel: 01 39 56 48 64

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"The delights of the four seasons," created by the Faience Enghien in partnership with the National Museums and the Museum of Toile de Jouy.

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Michael S. Smith- Elle Decor

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Carolyne Roehm

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Cathy Kincaid

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Design by Eleish Van Breems

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Martyn Lawrence Bullard

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Photo by Simon Upton

Framed panels of antique toile fabric.
Home of Glen Senk and Keith Johnson of Anthropologie.

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 Ballon de Gonesse toile

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Maison Cote Quest/Photos Christine Fleurent

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Design by Ginny Magher

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Carolina Herrera Jr.

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Design by Martyn Lawrence Bullard

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Design by Manuel Canovas

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Design by Melissa Myles Rufty

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Design by Jean-Louis Deniot

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French hand blocked toile wallpaper, ca. 1880

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Hand painted toile in the Swedish kitchen at Thureholm

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An early C19th French Buffet Du Corps lined with 19th century Toile du Jouy

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Painting by Jacques Lamy 

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Italian 18thc Toile Peinte

I make every effort to credit original sources and link wherever possible. I would be grateful if you can provide information on any unnamed source.  If you are the owner of any uncredited images, no deliberate infringement of copyright is intended. I respect all intellectual property and will remove or modify any image or post at the owner's request.

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